Shed Hunting – In Search of Lost Bone
By: Kevin Wilson
Posted on: 01/10/06
Any antlers are always appreciated, but I was searching for one set in particular. Worn by a mature buck, I guessed he would be dropping approximately 180-inches of bone. Picking up the matched set the year before, this year the buck was in his prime. Although I’d only seen him once myself, I’d heard rumors that he was still skulking through my favorite deer woods. I’d made it my personal mission to find his sheds.
Scouring his known territory in December, I made a bold declaration forecasting that he’d drop his antlers in one of two locations. One was a stand of old growth spruce trees and the other a harvested barley field located nearly a quarter-section to the west. Gambling that he’d spend most of his time at the food source, and based on the fact that we had over 12 inches of snowfall, I speculated that he’d drop at least one of his antlers near a hay bail at the end of a long strip of bush.
To make a very long story short, I revisited that property religiously throughout January and February, but to no avail. After more hours and miles than I cared to admit, I was on the verge of calling it quits. Then it happened. One day, as I coursed through my daily circuit following the hardened deer trails, there it was! Rounding the corner of the woodlot, I couldn’t believe my eyes! There before me, not 20 yards away, resting ever so gently on the packed snow was one of the massive antlers! Cast off the night before, the object of my desire was waiting for me to pick it up. Golden brown with double eye guards and ivory tines, this impressive antler was precisely what I’d been looking for!
If you are an avid shed hunter, you can relate. Running to collect my prize, I all but cradled and caressed the impressive piece of bone. At that moment, I couldn’t help but reflect on the season I’d invested hunting this wary buck. Then, as if that wasn’t enough, out of the corner of my eye I caught a glimpse of yet another. Like winning a lottery, there was the match laying a hop, skip and a jump away! What a find, and no word of a lie, they were both found exactly where I’d predicted, less than 15 yards from that hay bail at the end of the tree line!
So, did I get lucky? I’m sure to some degree I was. Are there academics to this shed hunting game? Absolutely.
If you want to bring up a competitive topic among the whitetail and even mule deer fraternity, mention the words shed hunting. With a cult following, those who commit heart and soul to searching for the ultimate antler literally live for the annual shedding phenomenon.
When is the Best Time?
February 1st marks the day that I begin searching in earnest. Is this day particularly magical? For those who treasure each and every antler they find, I suppose it does hold some mystical intrigue. But wait! Don’t bucks begin shedding their antlers shortly after the rut?
In consideration of the whitetail’s annual cycle, bucks begin to lose their antlers shortly after the rut. So, for those sub-species, particularly those in the southeastern States that rut in December and January, antlers will shed later but on a similar schedule, slightly offset by a few weeks from their northern cousins. In Alberta where I do much of my whitetail hunting and searching for sheds, the months of January and February are golden. Some antlers drop as early as mid-December, but most fall throughout the months of February and March. That said, with every rule there are exceptions. On rare occasions I’ve seen Alberta bucks still wearing an antler in April.
Where to Look
When I begin my routine of checking likely spots, I first drive as many different back roads as possible to look for well-used trails. Those exiting bigger timber and crossing roads into feeding fields are most visible. By well used, I’m not talking about scant tracks in the snow or dirt that appear to be used every couple of days. I’m speaking of those resembling hard packed cattle trails. We’ve all seen them; they’re the ones that cause us to hammer on the brakes, back up the truck and gawk in amazement! These are the rainbows that may inevitably lead you to your pot of gold! When deer movement is concentrated, it can only mean one thing – they use that trail to move from bedding to feeding and vice versa. Most antlers are found in either of three areas; in or near their beds, on route to feeding areas, or right at the feed itself.
Most sheds are found at feeding areas. Whether corn fields, pea fields, haystacks or even silage pits, it stands to reason that with so much up and down head movement, these locales are likely deposit spots. Particularly in states or provinces that get a lot of snow, food sources can be scarce. Attractants like grain piles and open bins in farmyards can make for easy picking and deer know it. Monitor these spots as deer shed their antlers and you’re sure to pick up at least one or two. Regardless of where you look, be thorough and pay close attention to detail.
A few years back I discovered a grain pile near a stand of old growth timber. It had been a cold winter thus far and the deer were yarding up. With good thermal cover nearby, the deer congregated in high numbers flocking to the readily available food source. On that property, during February alone, I picked up 17 antlers. Among them were four different sets. Other likely spots include trails following the bottom of ravines and fence crossings.
Be Diligent and Thorough
Don’t be fooled though. Yes, you can get lucky once in a while and find the ideal spot. But for the most part, if you want to find freshly fallen antlers, be prepared to put on the miles. It may require endless trudging through deep snow, hiking through biting mid-winter winds, and a highly trained eye. On good days the weather will be mild and you’ll find a few. Other days you’ll have to deal with Mother Nature’s wrath and may come up empty-handed. Sometimes you’ll see an antler from long distances because the entire thing is visible. Other times you may notice only a tip of a tine sticking up through the grass or snow.
As with deer hunting, searching for shed antlers follows suit. Smaller antlers are of course most common. To find a matching set scoring around the 200-inch mark, well that’s something we all dream of. Each time I lay eyes on a set of truly spectacular sheds, my heart pounds. It may be the anticipation that I’ll be the first human to every touch those antlers … words can’t describe the elation. Truth is, only a passionate deer hunter can relate.
Why Do Antlers Shed?
Like other ungulates, whitetails and mule deer lose their antlers for a variety of reasons. The most obvious is to allow for new growth – much like a child loses their teeth to allow for adult teeth to grow; the primary difference being that deer lose their antlers every year. Many suggest that another reason is to alleviate stress during the more difficult times of their annual cycle. Winter can impose harsh conditions on deer and by shedding their antlers, they simply conserve energy.
So how does this happen? Simply put, the dropping of antlers has to do with hormonal fluctuations, diet and stress. Larger bucks will often hold onto their headgear longer. But again, this depends on other factors as well. Bucks that have become fatigued from excessive fighting and breeding during the rut may be the first to lose their antlers. Through a natural process, as the level of testosterone in a buck’s system decreases, the shedding process begins. This is directly correlated to the amount of daylight experienced during an annual cycle. Some biologists also speculate as to the role another hormone called prolactin plays in this process. To my knowledge, no decisive findings have been made. Likewise healthier, more physically fit, deer may hold onto their headgear longer. Those more stressed tend to naturally cast off their antlers in an attempt to eliminate the excess weight.
So how does this information help us in searching for sheds? Knowing why deer lose their antlers can help us in finding them. When weather conditions are harsh, deer movement is minimal. All else being equal, survival instincts kick in and deer tend to stick as close to food sources as possible. In many instances, they will travel only short distances between bedding and feeding, in an effort to conserve energy.
Off-Season Scouting
Shed hunting season offers a break from the monotony of winter and gives us an excuse to get back out into the deer woods with a purpose. Why do I like looking for sheds? It allows me scout the properties I hunt in the fall. Looking for sheds allows me to gather important information about the general age and genetics in my area and usually identify a wall-hanger to focus on for the coming season. Scouring my area allows me to inventory the deer. By picking up sheds, I get a feel for which animals made it through hunting season. Probably the biggest value is that it forces me to become acquainted with every deer trail on those properties.
Shed Hunting for Profit
You definitely won’t get rich doing, but you might make a buck or two. Aside from the sheer recreational value, there is a growing commercial demand for shed antlers. Finding and marketing sheds can be profitable. By locating the right buyer – be they craftsmen or collectors, shed antlers can fetch a good dollar. Every year antler brokers travel through rural communities to purchase sheds. While some folks would rather lose an appendage than give up one of these coveted bones, others view them as a source of supplemental income.
I don’t make it a practice to sell antlers, however a few years back I had a buyer come and take several good sets. He had indicated that Bass Pro Shops were using them to make several of their in-store mounts. The most I’ve made from shed antlers was $1,200.00 for a matched set scoring around 183 inches B&C. Smaller sheds; i.e., those measuring 120-inches or less, are bought in bulk and purchased by the pound. Rates vary greatly and are determined by supply and demand. Fluctuating with the economy itself, antler values have gone up and down a fair bit in recent years. White, or bleached antler prices may be valued differently than those with a more “natural” look. Then of course there are lesser values for broken or cracked antlers depending on application and commercial demand.
Shed Hunting – A Competitive Endeavor
On the other hand, with the growing popularity of shed hunting for both recreation and profit, it’s often a race to find them before someone else does. So competitive is this pastime that many landowners are denying access because they’ve been inundated with requests from overzealous shed hunters. If and when this happens, I offer to scour their fields in an attempt to save their tractor tires from haphazard punctures. Typically greeted with a grin, most soften their stance and allow me access.
In my experience, the early bird gets the antler, and that means looking for them as soon as they drop in February and even March. While some prefer to wait until warmer weather arrives and the snows melt in April, I am more than willing to brave the cold and deep snow in search of bone.
Kevin Wilson is a freelance outdoors writer and professional big game & waterfowl guide/outfitter from Alberta, Canada. Confessing an obsession for big whitetails and bighorn sheep, he has hunted most North American big game species with either bow, muzzleloader, rifle or shotgun. Specializing in archery, freshwater fishing, waterfowl and big game hunting, his articles can be found in several well known outdoor publications across the U.S. and Canada. For more information on his outfitting services, visit www.venturenorthoutfitting.com.
Member of OWAA & OWC.
It’s Wintertime! Time to Start Thinking About Springtime Fishing
By badegg
Typical Springtime Bass Lures. The Devil’s Horse is second from the top, beneath the firetiger stickbait.
A good bass plug for springtime. This lure is about 6″ long
Plan Ahead!
The best time to begin thinking about early spring fishing is now…in the dead of winter! (Well, it’s not quite the dead of winter yet, but it is beginning to get darned cold here in the Appalachians!
Now is when you want to start planning your early spring fishing, because one morning in March, you will look out of your bathroom window and realize that you are missing the first greenup of spring, that first warm sunny day when the bass start pulling themselves out of the mud and start moving around.
If you are lucky enough to catch a “first day awake” bass, you will find this fish pale with lack of color and the fish will seem skinny and underfed, and won’t put up much of a fight. That’s because he is still half asleep. He hasn’t had much to eat all winter and has been “chillin’” at the bottom of the pond or lake using what stored energy he has to keep warm. The fish has been almost dormant, feeding very little. (This goes for eastern and Midwestern/Northern fish. You Southwesters probably get some action all year round!) Once these bass get awake enough, they begin feeding ravenously and gain their weight and color back rapidly.
What are they feeding on? Whatever they can grab that moves, and being springtime, that could be anything. Think about it. It is springtime, the aquatic turtles, salamanders, smaller yearling fish and crawfish are all coming out as the sun warms the shallow waters. Even snakes and lizards will be coming out and occasionally one will fall into the water to become a quick meal. Don’t be surprised to see a baby duck suddenly disappear. Try to match up your bait to what they are feeding on.
On one early spring trip that I recall, I was using a Lowrance fish finder on my little boat. The pond I was fishing on was partially covered with ice, but the sonar on the fish finder showed a lot of activity under the ice. As I cast over to the edge of the ice, I got no hits with my “sure fire” bass lures, so utilizing a lesson taught to me by my dad, I went smaller. Sure enough, I got some immediate reactions…from a school of crappie! They were out enjoying the springtime sun under the cover of the ice. From that point, I surveyed the pond, and realized that the bass were doing the same thing, only under more clandestine conditions. They were staying close to the shore, under the thin ice, and coming out only to feed on some interesting prey. The crappie were staying far out in the middle, under the ice to keep away from the feeding bass.
So what you have to do this winter to be ready for that first greenup is simple. Use this time to restring and service your reels, make repairs on your rods, and accumulate as much tackle and lures as you can. During this time of year, especially going into Christmas, you can find that many of your favorite tackle items are selling at sale prices. Take advantage of these sales. Wal-Mart is one place to buy a lot of these items at reduced prices, but lately Wal-Mart has been cutting back on some of their stock. I have found a treasure trove of fishing tackle on line at E-bay, and at Born-To-Fish.com. Born to Fish has an incredible supply and assortment of jigs, lures, spoons and spinner baits for an incredible price. My favorite purchase so far this winter has been for the vintage “Devil’s Horse” lures, made by Smithwick. They are not made anymore, but are a classic. You can still find them on E-bay for a reasonable price, be ready for a bidding war! The real DH’s are made of wood and are held together with small screws. They are awesome! They are the best topwater lure that I have ever used, and excellent springtime bait.
When you choose your lures for springtime fishing, choose bright vibrant colors like yellows, chartreuse, neon colors or fire tiger. You want to stick mainly with topwater or shallow diving lures during this time. Poppers, Devil’s Horses, stickbaits, buzz baits, chuggers and Zara Spooks are all good choices. The longer and skinnier the bait is, the better.
Look for sloping terrain at the water’s edge to begin your springtime fishing. The water generally stays warmer if the bottom gently slopes away from the edge than if it had a sudden drop off. The fish will be out in the 4-6 foot deep range in the early mornings and in the 6-8 foot range as the water is warmed. Occasionally at sun up, you can see the larger fish in the 2 foot range of the lake or pond feeding on the smaller fish, but they will spook out to deeper water easily, so be careful!
Be sure to have your rod tooled with 8-10 lb line, because once these early spring bass get their strength back, they will tear your tackle apart! They will feed ravenously and hit your topwater lures with enough of an explosion to give you a coronary! It won’t be uncommon to find a 6-8 pound bass on the end of your line in the early spring feed, and it is not uncommon for these fish to go airborne when they hit your lure. These guys are hard to catch the rest of the summer, but they are hungry when they first wake up.
You should try to stock your tackle box seasonally, have separate boxes or removable boxes and one larger box so you can adjust them accordingly. As early spring fades into late spring and summer, the fish will be deeper and more wary. That’s a whole ‘nother kind of fishing, and I will be back with that one for you as the time draws near.
Good luck to you.
Crappie fishing in cold weather has been one of my more successful efforts over the years. I discovered by trial and error, and by watching other fishermen, how to catch cold crappie at the end of December. Crappie school up so if you find them you can usually catch a lot. The pattern I use at Clark’s Hill works on other middle Georgia lakes this time of year, and it may work for you.
Water Temperature
The water temperature is usually in the low 50′s to upper 40′s at Clark’s Hill when I am fishing. The warmest I remember was 61 degrees on Christmas Eve, and the coldest was 44 the day after Christmas one year. I have been able to catch crappie at those temperatures and all between them.
Structure and Cover
I look for crappie on the old river and creek channels. Water varies from 25 to over 60 feet deep in the area I fish, and I ride the lip of the channel looking for an old tree that comes within 12 feet of the surface. The lake level varies year to year so some years the deeper trees are accessible, some years they are not. When I find a tree I drop a marker buoy over the side so I can keep up with where my boat is positioned.
Bait and Equipment To Use
I always start with a 1/8 ounce jig head with a small curly tail attached. I also have 1/16 heads and tails in white, yellow, chartreuse and cream. I start with the white if the water is fairly clear and chartreuse if it is stained. I fish the jig on a spinning outfit with a six foot light rod and spool up with six pound test line. The light line is critical and four pound test might work better in real clear water. Another key is the way the jig hangs. I tie an improved clinch knot and tighten it down, them make sure it is on eye of the hook so the jig is parallel to the surface of the water. I want the jig to look like a little minnow hanging in the water, hardly moving.
Depth To Fish
Usually I can see the fish hanging around the tree and I fish the depth they are suspended. That is almost always right at 12 feet deep, so I try to fish at 11 to11.5 feet. I have been told crappie will move up a little to take a bait but will not move down, and that has been my experience. I position the boat right over the fish and hold there by watching a deptfinder mounted to my trolling motor. By raising my rod tip straight over my head and letting the jig just touch the water I have about 14 feet of line out. When I drop the rod tip down to fishing position, about two feet above the water, the jig is 12 feet deep and I slowly move it up and down until the fish hit. When the first one hits I can then keep my rod tip at that level and be sure my jig is at the right depth every time.
Time of Day
My best luck has been during the middle of the day, from about 11:00 AM until 4:00 PM. Sometimes they bite up until dark but not usually. A little breeze helps but a strong wind makes it difficult to fish a light jig and hold the boat in position. When there is not wind at all the fish do not seem to bite as good, though Try these tactics and see if they work for you. They might even work thru the ice. Let me know how you do!
Fishing in cold weather has been one of my more successful efforts over the years. I discovered by trial and error, and by watching other fishermen, how to catch Crappie cold crappie at the end of December. Crappie school up so if you find them you can usually catch a lot. The pattern I use at Clark’s Hill works on other middle Georgia lakes this time of year, and it may work for you.
Water Temperature
The water temperature is usually in the low 50′s to upper 40′s at Clark’s Hill when I am fishing. The warmest I remember was 61 degrees on Christmas Eve, and the coldest was 44 the day after Christmas one year. I have been able to catch crappie at those temperatures and all between them.
Structure and Cover
I look for crappie on the old river and creek channels. Water varies from 25 to over 60 feet deep in the area I fish, and I ride the lip of the channel looking for an old tree that comes within 12 feet of the surface. The lake level varies year to year so some years the deeper trees are accessible, some years they are not. When I find a tree I drop a marker buoy over the side so I can keep up with where my boat is positioned.
Bait and Equipment To Use
I always start with a 1/8 ounce jig head with a small curly tail attached. I also have 1/16 heads and tails in white, yellow, chartreuse and cream. I start with the white if the water is fairly clear and chartreuse if it is stained. I fish the jig on a spinning outfit with a six foot light rod and spool up with six pound test line. The light line is critical and four pound test might work better in real clear water. Another key is the way the jig hangs. I tie an improved clinch knot and tighten it down, them make sure it is on eye of the hook so the jig is parallel to the surface of the water. I want the jig to look like a little minnow hanging in the water, hardly moving.
Depth To Fish
Usually I can see the fish hanging around the tree and I fish the depth they are suspended. That is almost always right at 12 feet deep, so I try to fish at 11 to11.5 feet. I have been told crappie will move up a little to take a bait but will not move down, and that has been my experience. I position the boat right over the fish and hold there by watching a deptfinder mounted to my trolling motor. By raising my rod tip straight over my head and letting the jig just touch the water I have about 14 feet of line out. When I drop the rod tip down to fishing position, about two feet above the water, the jig is 12 feet deep and I slowly move it up and down until the fish hit. When the first one hits I can then keep my rod tip at that level and be sure my jig is at the right depth every time.
Time of Day
My best luck has been during the middle of the day, from about 11:00 AM until 4:00 PM. Sometimes they bite up until dark but not usually. A little breeze helps but a strong wind makes it difficult to fish a light jig and hold the boat in position. When there is not wind at all the fish do not seem to bite as good, though Try these tactics and see if they work for you. They might even work thru the ice. Let me know how you do!
Rambo agrees. “Before I ever get to the ramp I’ve looked at a good lake map like a HotSpots map. I find spots in the depths of water I want to fish. I like to pick different areas so if the wind is blowing we can have a place where we can fish no matter which way the wind is coming from. We use a Humminbird 797 and with today’s technology we probably find ten times more fish. I don’t believe we would be competitive in the tournaments if we didn’t have the good electronics in our boat.”
Both fishermen like to look for flats in late summer and fall. Outlaw targets big flats close to a channel. “I think the fish are going to the same areas where they were in the spring but they won’t be as shallow. Actually, I will try big flats 12 to 16 feet deep just off of the main river channel. I really like the 12-foot range because that seems to be a good depth no matter where I go.”
Rambo begins his search in 10 feet of water. “It’s true the fish will probably be in open water although a few may go to the timber. I’ll adjust my depth according to where the fish have moved and that could be shallower in the fall.”
Catching Fish
You’ll find Outlaw spider rigging off the front of the boat. Unlike others, he doesn’t set the trolling motor a certain direction and lock it in. He prefers to wonder around in the area he’s fishing and when he finds good cover he stops and positions all baits into the strike zone. By going against the wind all he has to do is take his foot off of the trolling motor and the boat will stop. He believes more than one big fish can live on a piece of structure so why not leave the baits in there longer instead of continuing on after you catch one fish.
“In the fall the water is getting back to what I call ‘sweet water’ where there is more oxygen in the water and the fish are moving and active. They’ll stay that way until they move to their winter pattern in about November where I live.”
“The main thing is to stay near the river channel,” says Outlaw. “The fish use the channel as a highway so in late summer the fish are using it to get to the flats. A bend, cut or anything with good cover on it will be best.”
Outlaw will be using a double-hook minnow rig and usually have a jig on the bottom hook. “I’ll be using a Washoppah or Bobby Garland Jig. I’m excited about the new Garland Minnow Mind’R jig developed primarily to cradle and keep the minnow in place. This will likely become a very popular bait as soon as more people learn about it.”
“We’ll usually be longlining,” says Rambo. “That works on the 10 foot flats we’re talking about. We take off along the flat using our depthfinder and watching the pole. Our baits are trailing out behind. Generally, when we start seeing them on the scope we start catching them. Our baits are about 70 to 90 feet behind the boat. We use two 1/16-ounce jigs spaced three to four feet apart. If we need to get deeper we’ll add 1/4-ounce split shot. Two big shot will get the baits to 10 or 11 feet when going 1 mile per hour like we generally go.” His top baits for longlining are the Southern Pro Hot Grub and Charlie Brewer Slider.
Results
Fall fishing can be a great time of the year to catch crappie. Both fishermen outlined strategies for fishing flats with one choosing slow trolling while the other prefers longlining. Fall offers more than shotgun and rifle adventures so get out and enjoy time on the water chasing slabs during this great crappie fishing period.
If you want to become a good coyote hunter you have to know that it takes a lot of practice, patience and research; you won’t become a good one overnight, it takes time to learn all the tips & tricks that will turn you into an efficient hunter. But you have to remember one thing: although you will read lots of books & info or see lots of videos on the Internet about coyote hunting, all this will never replace the experience of the real hunting; you have to see it for yourself in order to comprehend the entire activity; without the real experience, the research is useless.
First of all we are going to debate the topic of equipment which is one of the most important parts when it comes down to coyote hunting ( or any other type of hunting as a matter of fact ). Every coyote hunter will switch a lot of equipment until he will find the most suitable one for him. Basically, it depends on each and every person, not all people are the same so some of us prefer one type of equipment while others prefer a different one. Usually, first time coyote hunters start with a rifle.
Choosing a rifle depends on the area where you will do your hunting. If you are planning to hunt in a wide open area then you should search for the flattest cartridge available that could reach a respectable distance of about 300 yards (approximately 274 meters). Experienced hunters affirm that the .220 Swift is the right option for this type of hunting. Other hunters say that the Remington 700VS is the perfect rifle. Of course, choosing a rifle depends a lot on the available budget, but if you know where to look you will find the best compromise. While choosing a rifle you have to take into consideration that the coyote is a very clever animal which is almost stubborn when it comes down to survival so don’t make a mistake by choosing a rifle which has unknown capabilities just to save a few dollars. If you plan to be efficient then you have to get the right tools. Many coyote hunters say that the most efficient rounds are between the .222 and 6mm Remington ( keep this in mind when you are at a rifle shop ). Once you have purchased a rifle be sure to keep it, don’t make the mistake that most beginners make when they buy their rifle and don’t seem to like it very much; give it a few more shots; I’m certain you will begin to accommodate with it pretty soon; as they say practice makes perfect; also it will build your self-confidence.
Pre-season Turkey Scouting
by Pursue The Outdoors on June 25th, 2005 in Turkey Hunting
As with all other hunting, the best strategy in turkey hunting is to be in the right place at the right time. The number one key to successful hunting is “location, location, location.” Locating game animals consists of two primary techniques, scouting and observing. The more time and effort you spend scouting and observing the animals, and recording what you have learned, the less time you will have to be spend patterning and hunting the animals. Once you know where the animals are through scouting; and know the sex, size, and time to expect them in certain areas (based on observing and recording in a journal and marking on a map), it’s a matter of determining the right spot to hunt at the right time.
Scouting
When you are scouting for turkeys you should learn the lay of the land. You want to know where the ravines, gullies, streams and fences are; obstacles that a turkey may detour around or may not cross. You also want to know the topography of the land; the elevation of hills and valleys, so you know if the birds are above or below you when you hear them. When you are calling turkeys try to be above the birds; turkeys prefer to come uphill to a call rather than down.
You want to know where the food sources are, and what time of the year they are used. You should also look for the roosting areas, watering sites, breeding areas and travel routes of the birds. If you know where the openings and feeding areas are, you will be able to choose the best places to set up, and you will be able to estimate how long it will take a bird to come to your call.
You should know the land as thoroughly as the animals do, so you know where to find them under the current conditions and time of year. If you know the land, you will know where the birds are when you hear them, even if you can’t see them. If you see them you will know the route either you or the birds will probably travel, and approximately how long it will take for you or them to get to specific areas. But, you won’t know the number of birds, their size and sex, interesting characteristics, or when they use specific areas unless you observe them.
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Observing
One of the best ways to understand an animal is to observe it under natural conditions. Observing is watching, undetected, to learn more about the animals and have a better understanding of them. Observing is not accidentally running into or spooking animals. The only way to know the numbers, size, sex, characteristics, and the time to expect the animals in particular locations is by spending some time and effort observing them. Scouting is learning the land and finding areas used frequently by the animals.
An observation site should be a high point with a good view of much of the land, far enough away that you will not disturb the animals during their normal routine. A tree stand at the edge of field, or a hill, is a good site. By choosing the right spot to watch from you are able to see how the animals react to weather, light, hunting pressure, and other predators. You may also have a chance to hear the animals calling and see the body posture and movement associated with the call.
Recording
While you are scouting and observing you should also put your findings in a journal. Mark the places where you see the animals on a map, and mark the trails, resting, feeding, breeding and watering areas The more information you keep in a journal, and the more information you have on your map, the easier it will be to understand the animals and pattern them. Keep notes on date, day, time, sky conditions (amount of light), wind direction and speed, temperature, dewpoint, wind-chill, precipitation, breeding phase, food availability, number of animals, sex, direction of travel, activity, size and any other factors that might help you better understand the animals.
Patterning
While observing the animals you may be able to determine regular travel routes and times they use, which will help you pattern the animals and make it easier to choose the right time and place to hunt them. Patterning cannot be done in a few hours, it may take days or even weeks. The more time and effort you spend observing the animals, the clearer the pattern will become, and the more you will learn and understand the animals.
High Use Areas
To locate turkeys it is helpful to have a good topographical map of the area, or a good aerial photo. These visual aids will help determine where the “high use areas” of security cover, roosting sites, water, food, strutting, and travel areas are before you are even on the property. Then it’s time to get on the property and scout for sign left by turkeys. Two prime areas you want to locate are the food sources, which often serve as strutting areas, and the roosting sites. These are the areas where turkeys spend a majority of their time and leave the most sign. They are also the areas where turkeys are the most predictable, where you have the best chance of ambushing or getting them to come to you. Find these areas and you will find the birds.
Don’t Scout Too Early
The dates of the turkey season where you plan to hunt, and the dates you actually plan to hunt, dictate why and when you scout. If your reason for scouting is to learn more about turkeys (to understand them), or more about the numbers, sex and physical characteristics of the birds (their size, beard length/number, body color), you can scout anytime of the year. But, if your reason for scouting is to pattern the birds in preparation for a hunt, you should plan on a final scouting session not more than a week before the hunt.
The reason I say this is because turkeys often migrate from winter to spring home ranges, and this migration may occur just before or during your hunt. If you scout too far in advance of your hunt, and locate the birds on their winter range, and then hunt after they have moved to their spring home range, you may find fewer birds in the area than you expected, or no birds at all.
When there is a late spring I’ve watched turkeys migrate as late as the last week of April in southern Minnesota. I’ve also watched turkeys leave their wintering area, and then return to their wintering grounds a couple of days later if conditions weren’t right on their spring home ranges. If the birds aren’t where you expect to find them during your hunt when you hunt, the best thing to do is spend the first few days of the hunt scouting to find out where they went.